Aboard the Caledonian Sleeper by Dave Douglas Davis
Inverness, nestled by the River Ness, is the doorway to northern Scotland and the Scottish isles. This ancient Gaelic city is the starting point for those venturing towards Loch Ness, Skye, the Outer Hebrides, the Orkneys, and even the Shetlands. While there are numerous ways to reach the UK’s northernmost city, the most enchanting is the overnight journey from London via the Caledonian Sleeper.
During its 11-hour nighttime journey, the gentle motion of the sleeper carriages provides a rhythmic lullaby, transitioning travelers from London’s hustle and bustle at Euston Station to the serene beauty of Cairngorm National Park, which welcomes the waking traveler as the train nears Inverness.
The Highland Sleeper, covering the route from London to Inverness, traces its roots back to the 1850s when Scottish sleeper trains first began operations. It has a touch of royal heritage, having been called the Royal Highlander due to its continued use by the royal family traveling between London and Scotland. Today, the sleeper trains are managed by Serco Group, a company with extensive expertise in transportation.
My discovery of the sleeper train was an unexpected delight during a trip primarily focused on visiting the Callanish Stones on the Isle of Lewis, a fascinating Neolithic monument. Although the ancient site captivated my archaeological interests, the memory of my journey on the Caledonian Sleeper stands out equally. It was one of those instances where the side adventure nearly eclipsed the main event.
We booked the Sleeper on the recommendation of friends from the UK who had previously traveled on it. They mentioned faster trains and various flights from London but emphasized that the Sleeper was worth every minute. My wife and I decided to share a second-class berth, with one of us taking the upper bed and the other the lower. However, due to our late booking in the busy summer season, we ended up with first-class berths. First-class offers a private cabin, reserved dining in the lounge car, and access to terminal lounges in London and Scotland. These lounges provide complimentary WiFi, beverages, snacks, and a quieter space away from the main waiting areas. In Inverness and Edinburgh, first-class passengers even enjoy a private hot shower with a towel!
However, you don’t need first-class tickets to enjoy the essence of the Caledonian Sleeper. On our return trip to London, we traveled in second class and still experienced excellent service, morning coffee or tea, and a comfortable night’s sleep. The remarkable hospitality from the Caledonian Sleeper’s staff is noteworthy, as meticulous attention to service is not as common as one might hope.
The service staff take personal pride in ensuring every passenger’s comfort and needs are met. Notably, the Caledonian Sleeper even has a Customer Experience Manager, Ryan Flaherty, who highlights the dedication of the teams on board the trains, many of whom have long service and a genuine care for their guests.
For those dining on board, the lounge car menu features diverse dishes like lamb cassoulet, salmon and butternut squash curry, and for an authentic Scottish experience, haggis with neeps and tatties. The drinks menu is equally appealing, showcasing a selection of wines and fine Scotch whiskies.
If the Caledonian Sleeper sounds like a perfect experience, it nearly is. Nonetheless, enhancements are on the horizon. The current sleeper carriages, dating back to 1972, are being replaced. New sleeper carriages, commissioned and built in Spain, will be introduced in 2018, featuring upgraded club cars and suites with ensuite toilet and shower facilities, and for the first time in British rail history, a double bed. Importantly, the focus on delivering a memorable passenger experience will remain unchanged.
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