Arriving at your destination can be both happy and bittersweet, especially during a pilgrimage or a long hike, where the journey itself holds the most significance. Every journey must end at some point to allow a new one to begin. Historically, completing a pilgrimage meant you were forgiven for your sins, allowing a fresh start. The scallop shell symbolizes this achievement and the reminder that extraordinary accomplishments are possible.
Ava Kabouchy concluded her Camino de Santiago not at the cathedral but on a beach in Spain, at the End of the World.
Another pilgrim and I arrived at the large monastery’s gates at the same time. He was from Canada and had walked all 941 miles from Puy en Velay in France. I wanted to talk to him about his experience, but we both seemed to need some alone time to process our journey.
Upon checking in, I walked to see my destination—the Cathedral of St. James of Compostela. The large square in front of it was initially meant for the workers and materials used to build the cathedral in 1075. I walked to the furthest point without looking left, wanting to capture the entire scene at once. When I finally turned, the cathedral was as magnificent as I had imagined, standing there since the Middle Ages.
The simplicity of waking up, having breakfast, reorganizing your backpack, and heading to the next pilgrim inn was a wonderful way to spend each day. Reaching the Cathedral of St. James in Santiago de Compostela was a perfect way to conclude this journey.
The Camino is a fitting metaphor for life, with its ups and downs and moments of difficulty and joy. I encountered kind people and even “angels” when I needed help. One such angel carried a blue umbrella and helped me find a hidden hotel in the rain.
The Camino wasn’t easy; on the first day, crossing the Pyrenees was grueling with cold, wind, and mud. Yet, reaching the monastery in Roncesvalles was a new beginning, filled with anticipation for the weeks ahead.
Each person had their own reason for walking the Camino—some for religious purposes, others seeking personal insights or just the experience. I’m not religious, but it’s impossible not to feel the Camino’s spiritual essence, often felt through deep and open conversations with fellow pilgrims.
One American nurse shared her story about overcoming drug addiction. Such honest conversations are rare in everyday life but common on the Camino. The journey is a haven of peace, beauty, history, and friendliness, leading to Compostela where one can reflect or celebrate their arrival.
I miss the Camino—the sound of my trekking poles, the greetings of “Buen Camino,” watching the colors change at sunrise. I cherished the alone times for reflection on my life and future plans.
The scallop shell, a symbol of rebirth, reminds me of new beginnings. I give one to each of my grandkids as they graduate, hoping it symbolizes their upcoming opportunities.
After Compostela, I took a bus to Finisterre, the end of the earth, and saw the Atlantic on a windy day. There, I placed a note under a peace marker for a friend and left two stones—one from Saudi Arabia and one from Maine, linking my past memories to this significant spot.
Maybe the Camino’s gift to me was the ability to let go of past difficulties and focus on positive memories.
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When to go: Spain is extremely hot in summer, so May, September, and early October are better times to visit. This way, you also avoid the rush for beds at pilgrim inns, which open at 3 PM.
Guidebook: I highly recommend “Camino de Santiago” by Beebe Bahrami, published by Moon Publishers. It’s a comprehensive guide with all necessary information, including a removable map.
Backpack Transport: I used a transport service that picks up backpacks by 8 AM each morning. Each inn provides an envelope for the service fee. Just write the name of your next inn, and your pack will be there when you arrive.
Where to eat: There are plenty of cafés and small restaurants along the way. When asked why I didn’t just hike the Appalachian Trail, I explained there are no such amenities along the AT, which my friend understood.
Recommended Reading: “The Art of Pilgrimage: The Seeker’s Guide to Making Travel Sacred” by Phil Cousineau.
Remember, it is your Camino. Do it at your pace and savor the experience. Buen Camino!
This concludes the third and final part of Ava’s Camino journey. Ava has had a fascinating life filled with global travels and adventures, from working in various African countries to exploring the deserts of Saudi Arabia. She is also an author and makes her home in southwest France and on a remote island in Maine, USA.
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