Exploring La Rioja: Wine, History, and Beyond
If you’re heading to La Rioja in Northern Spain for its wine, you’re in for a treat. The food is also excellent, and there’s so much more to explore, including charming medieval villages, cathedrals, castles, and dolmens. Let’s dive into the many attractions of this wonderful region.
La Rioja is close to the North Atlantic (Bay of Biscay) in Northern Spain. Its name combines “rio” (river) with “Oja,” from a southern tributary of the Ebro River. The Ebro River partially divides the Basque Country in the north from the Castile and León regions in the south. Don’t worry about language barriers; most areas are bilingual in Basque and Spanish, and English and French are widely spoken. Plus, Google Translate is always handy for text and voice translations.
You don’t have to be a wine expert to appreciate the fabulous wines of La Rioja. This region is filled with vineyards and wineries, offering a variety of wines from its three sub-regions: Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa (the smallest), and Rioja Oriental (previously called Rioja Baja). These areas produce wines with top classifications like Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOC) and Denomination de Origen (DO), ensuring you’re tasting high-quality grapes from specific areas.
Top-quality wines are labeled Gran Reserva and Reserva, with Gran Reserva aged in oak for five or more years. Lesser-aged wines are labeled Crianza and Generic but are still delicious and reasonably priced. When in doubt, ask the waiter or bartender for their recommendations.
For a comprehensive experience, spend at least four full days in La Rioja. On the first day, explore the north side of the Rio Ebro. Starting from Haro, take the N-232a rural road east. You’ll find plenty of vineyards and wineries along the way. In most small towns, you can sample great wines in bars and restaurants, even if wineries aren’t open for drop-in tastings. Remember, ‘bodega’ can mean a winery, wine bar, or small grocery store.
Just 10 km from Haro is the hill village of San Vicente de la Sonsierra, where you’ll feel like you’ve stepped back in time. The castle at the top offers stunning views of the region. Continuing east on the N-232a, 20 km from San Vicente is the village of Laguardia. It might be a bit touristy but it’s worth a visit for its medieval charm and narrow streets. Don’t miss the old wall clock with its little automaton dancers in the central Plaza Mayor.
Close by is the Hotel Marqués de Riscal in Elciego, designed by Canadian architect Frank Gehry. This building is worth a visit for its unique deconstructivism style. Park at the nearby Bodegas Marqués de Riscal for a wine tasting before exploring the hotel. The views of the Parroquia San Andres Apostol parish church are magnificent.
From Elciego, continue exploring the villages along the N-232a. Each village has its own charm, with cathedrals, bodegas, and plazas perfect for soaking in the ambiance. You’ll also find dolmens and other cultural sites. For castles, head to Castillo de Briones in Briones, or explore the Vivanco Museum of Wine Culture.
La Rioja is full of fascinating historical sites. The French Route (Camino Frances) for the Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage runs through the region, crossing near the N-120 and A-12 roads. Visit the picturesque San Millán Yuso and Suso Monasteries following the LR-206. These UNESCO World Heritage Sites offer stunning views and a peaceful atmosphere.
Further west is the town of Ezcaray, perfect for a leisurely stroll and an afternoon coffee at the Plaza del Conde de Torremuzquiz. If you have time, consider a trip to Burgos, about 90 km west of Haro, to see the UNESCO-listed Cathedral of Saint Mary of Burgos. This French Gothic cathedral is a must-see.
Don’t miss the fairy-tale village of Sajazarra, with its cobbled streets and well-preserved castle, just 12 km northwest of Haro. In Haro itself, explore the Plaza de la Paz, the Basilica de Nuestra Senora de la Vega, and the Parroquia de Santo Tomas cathedrals. The Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Haro El Torreón is also worth a visit for its beautiful art.
Eating and drinking well in Spain is a given. Be mindful of the meal times: lunch is from 1:30 pm to 3:30 pm and dinner starts around 8:00 pm. You’ll find fantastic dining options, often in scenic outdoor settings. Staying inside can help you avoid cigarette smoke since smoking is banned in public workplaces.
In Haro, try the Eurostars Los Austinos Gastronomy in a 14th-century convent for an exceptional meal. For groceries, the local Mercadona supermarket has everything you need, including picnic supplies.
For getting to La Rioja, fly into Bilbao or Zaragoza. We flew from Barcelona to Bilbao with Volotea, a budget-friendly and reliable airline. Alternatively, take a high-speed AVE train from Barcelona or Madrid to Zaragoza-Delicias central station and rent a car for the drive west on the AP-68 toll motorway.
A rental car is essential for exploring La Rioja. We opted for Enterprise at Bilbao-Loiu Airport and drove south to Haro. Use Google Maps for easy navigation and be mindful of road construction and bikers sharing the narrow roads.
Consider a mobile data plan like Vodafone’s 256GB to stay connected throughout your trip. Swap SIM cards or use an eSIM if you have an iPhone 14.
Finding accommodation in La Rioja is overwhelming due to the numerous options. We used Booking.com to find a two-bedroom apartment in Haro at Apartamentos Turísticos de La Vega. It was well-equipped, conveniently located, and offered great views.
La Rioja has everything: easy travel, fantastic attractions, and a welcoming atmosphere. Whether you’re a wine lover or not, La Rioja might just turn you into one.
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