Certain towns seem to perfectly fit into their landscape, both historically and culturally. Whether it’s the white villages of Andalucia, the Trulli of Puglia, or the limewashed stone houses of Greece, there’s a clear connection to the land, sea, and past. The Schist Villages in Central Portugal also have a deep attachment to their surroundings and history. Once neglected and forgotten, these small stone villages are now being revived. People are moving back to restore and sometimes completely redesign these ancient houses, drawn by the lush, mountainous scenery, medieval castles, and fascinating history.
It’s no surprise that schist is abundant here. For centuries, villagers only needed to step outside their doors to collect the materials required for building: schist and wood. Schist is a timeless material, versatile enough to create anything from cozy stone cottages to sleek modern villas. Here, buildings seem to naturally emerge from the earth, connecting history and tradition. These structures not only blend with their surroundings due to local materials but also because the tradition of schist construction dates back millennia.
Human occupation in this area dates back to prehistoric times, evident in rock engravings along the Zêzere River and Neolithic archaeological finds. Romans, barbarians, and Arabs have also left their marks on local infrastructure and place names. However, it was during medieval times that the schist villages truly expanded. Built at strategic commercial points or founded by religious orders and farmers, these villages thrived until the mid-20th century when desertion set in. Program “Aldeias do Xisto” was initiated between 2000 and 2002, aiming to rebrand and revitalize these villages, leading to a network of 27 villages. Today, you can stay, eat, and even rent a schist house via Airbnb in these charming locations.
For hiking enthusiasts, this region offers a perfect way to connect with the landscape and sense its uniqueness. Although the weather was wet and darker compared to the sunny Algarve, the charm of the area eventually won us over.
The Serra do Açor and Serra da Lousã stand out with medium-sized mountains, combining historical schist villages and varied rivers. During our visit, we explored several hiking trails. Unfortunately, due to Covid-19, we had to cut our trip short and missed the PR2 AGN – The Peoples of Ribeiras de Piodam, a hike that crosses the terraced countryside past Piódão and Foz d’Égua.
Among the most beautiful schist villages we visited were:
– Benfeita: A serene village nestled in a valley with a trickling river and close to the Fraga da Pena waterfall. It’s the starting point of the PR1 AGN – Caminho do Xisto da Benfeita hiking trail, and has a café in the central square.
– Foz d’Égua: Known for its striking blend of mountains, schist houses, and natural beauty, this village features a beautiful river beach at the junction of the Piódão and Chãs streams.
– Piódão: This emblematic village seems hidden in the mountains of Açor. Approaching via winding streets, one is greeted by its houses terraced along the hillside, blending blue and schist in narrow, labyrinthine streets. It also offers accommodation, restaurants, and cafés.
– Talasnal: The first village on the PR2 LSA – Lousã Schist Villages Route, this village has seen a revival, likely due to its proximity to Lousã and natural beauty. Restored houses and creative decor make it particularly charming, along with its bed and breakfasts and restaurants.
– Casal Novo: This quieter village offers spectacular views and tranquil surroundings, perfect for those seeking calm amidst the slate houses.
– Aigra Nova, Aigra Velha, and Pena: Found on the PR1 GOI – Schist Traditions Route, these villages offer a blend of tradition and nature. Pena, for instance, has houses with a clever two-floor design to keep living areas warm.
Additionally, historical sites like the Castle of Lousã, built in the 11th century to protect southern routes to Coimbra, and the Sanctuary of Nossa Senhora da Piedade, add to the region’s charm with their legends and quiet beauty.
In sum, the Schist Villages in Central Portugal offer a unique combination of history, culture, and stunning natural landscapes that are well worth the visit.
suansuan