Portugal is quickly becoming one of Europe’s top tourist destinations, with millions visiting cities like Lisbon and Porto. The vibrant culture, friendly locals, and great weather keep people coming back year after year. However, as any traveler knows, popular spots can sometimes lose their charm due to the constant influx of visitors.
In search of more hidden gems, I decided to visit Mira de Aire, a quiet town near the Parque Natural das Serras de Aire e Candeeiros. Just an hour north of Lisbon and twenty minutes from the famous surfing spot of Nazare, this town lacks the typical tourist crowds. There aren’t long rows of hotels or souvenir shops selling mass-produced items. Centered around the quaint church of Nossa Senhora do Amparo, Mira de Aire offers an untouched, authentic atmosphere reminiscent of Lisbon a decade ago. The town’s cobblestone streets wind past murals of Catholic imagery and small cafés where English is rarely spoken.
Mira de Aire is best known for its impressive cave system, discovered in 1947. When you think of caves, you might imagine dark, damp places filled with spiders and bats. However, the caves here are like stepping into a hidden underground world. They are so deep that you have to take an elevator to reach the end! As you explore, rivers and waterfalls create a haunting soundtrack, and strange, glittering rock formations emerge from the walls like Gothic sculptures. The cave system extends for about 11 kilometers, but only 600 meters are open to the public.
Many visitors come from Lisbon to see these caves, often stopping to take in the view of the mountainous gap overlooking the town. Few realize that there are three other cave systems nearby: Alvados, San Antonio, and Moeda, each boasting stunning natural beauty.
The National Park itself, designated as a protected area since 1979, offers incredibly diverse landscapes. You can enjoy views of olive groves stretching to the horizon, marvel at sparkling calcite crystal formations, or stand before a solitary waterfall. With numerous well-marked hiking and biking paths, the park is ideal for adventurers. From Mira de Aire, you can simply pick a direction and walk. Trails can lead you over the white, shiny rocks of Candeeiros, or through the flood plain of ‘O Mar de Minde,’ where puddles abound in winter, and ponds and lagoons provide a haven for birds and frogs in summer. Nearby towns like Minde are easily accessible on foot or by bike, offering more countryside views.
Exploring deeper into the National Park, you’ll find paths leading to places like Olhos de Agua, a river beach fed by crystal-clear water from a rocky canyon. While locals frequent this spot on summer weekends, a short walk downstream will reveal hidden beaches and waterfalls. Another cave system here is unguided and should only be explored with experience and caution. From Mira de Aire, you can reach this area by foot in about three hours, or by bike in just one. The journey offers stunning views perfect for Instagram or cherished memories.
During my trek, I stumbled upon a giant snake skin over a meter long, which might scare some people back to town. However, you’re unlikely to encounter these shy creatures. The biggest danger in the park is the heat, which can soar to 35 degrees Celsius in summer. The best times to visit are March to June and September to October to avoid extreme temperatures.
The southeast corner of the park intersects with pilgrimage trails leading to Fatima and Santiago de Compostela. Fatima is one of the top Catholic pilgrimage sites globally, often visited by Popes. The site gained fame in 1917 when three children claimed to have seen the Virgin Mary, leading to the ‘Miracle of the Sun,’ witnessed by thousands. The stunning Sanctuary of Our Lady of Fatima, with its towering white spire and expansive square, rivals famous religious sites like St Peter’s Basilica in Rome but without the heavy security and crowds. It’s a serene place for spiritual reflection and prayer.
As day turns to night, another kind of magic appears. From the Candeeiros ridge, you can gaze southward to see the Milky Way’s bright arc. Millions of stars light-years away might inspire thoughts of other worlds or make you feel like you’re gazing into an underground cave adorned with crystal veins.
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