After enjoying the fantastic ports of Portugal in Porto, why not extend your wine adventure to the Douro Valley? Here, you’ll find even more amazing ports and a selection of some of the finest red, white, and sparkling wines (known locally as Espumante).
Don’t think of the Douro Valley as a day trip destination; there’s so much to see beyond the vineyards, including Roman ruins, castles, cathedrals, and stunning landscapes.
A great place to start is Lamego, located about 130 kilometers from Porto. My wife and I stayed in a renovated self-catering apartment called O Cantinho Do Colégio near the town center. It featured a fully equipped kitchen and spacious bedrooms, along with lovely views of Lamego Castle.
Lamego itself is full of charm. We visited the Sé Catedral de Nossa Senhora da Assunção, known as Lamego Cathedral, which dates back to the 12th century. The cathedral showcases a unique mix of Gothic and Renaissance styles with a Romanesque bell tower and beautiful ceiling frescoes.
Nearby, the town’s main promenade is a charming, tree-lined area filled with benches, statues, fountains, and small food vendors. It’s perfect for a leisurely stroll and offers several spots to enjoy a meal or a drink. Walking along, the sight of the Santuário de Nossa Senhora dos Remédios perched on a hill will likely tempt you to climb its 686 steps. While you can take a taxi, the traditional pilgrim route up the stairs offers lovely views and interesting blue tiles (azulejos) along the way.
Lamego’s Castle is a short walk uphill through the medieval part of town. The fortress, dating back to the 12th century, has been well preserved and offers fantastic views from its tower. On your way back from the castle, you’ll come across the 13th-century Cisterna of Lamego, a well-preserved rainwater catchment system with informative displays. Nearby is Lamego’s main market, Mercado Municipal de Lamego, which is perfect for stocking up on fresh produce and fish.
For culture lovers, the Museum of Lamego is a must-visit. It houses wonderful paintings, tapestries, sculptures, ceramics, jewelry, and other artworks. Set aside a few hours for this gem; you won’t regret it.
Exploring the area around Lamego is easiest with a rented car, though taxis are readily available. Just southwest of town, off the N2, is the Caves da Raposeira winery, where you can enjoy tours and tastings of their sparkling and still wines. Another excellent spot is Caves da Murganheira, accessible via N229 to M520, which also offers tours and tastings.
On your way to these wineries, consider stopping at Vila da Ponte on the River Varosa. This quaint village features a historic tower and the ancient Ponte de Ucanha bridge. There are a few rustic restaurants and bars where you can relax and enjoy the local vibe.
Heading north from Lamego towards the Douro River opens up even more exploration opportunities. It’s a good idea to plan your route and check the schedules of the wineries for tastings. On the south side of the Douro River, we had a lovely tasting experience at Quinta da Pacheca, known for its excellent wines, including an outstanding white port. On the north side, Quinta da Devesa offered fabulous wines and views, though it required some effort to find.
Peso da Régua, a town on the north side of the Douro River, is home to the Douro Museum. This museum is perfect for learning about the region’s rich heritage and its status as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Plan for at least a couple of hours to fully appreciate it.
Finding good food in Portugal is never an issue. In Peso da Régua, we enjoyed a delicious fish stew at the Nacional Café Restaurant, known for its authentic Portuguese cuisine and hospitality. In Lamego, we dined at Manjar do Douro, which offers a range of vegetarian dishes, a kids’ menu, and an extensive wine list.
For a truly luxurious experience, consider the Six Senses Resort and Spa. This top-tier destination offers exceptional food and warm hospitality, making it a worthwhile indulgence.
You can easily reach Peso da Régua from Porto by train, with trips taking less than two hours. Sit on the right side for the best views. From there, you can rent a car to explore the Douro Valley. While driving, be prepared for some adventure as roads and signs can be tricky. Portuguese drivers are typically fast and confident, so defensive driving is key.
A week in the Douro Valley will give you just a taste of all it has to offer. My wife and I are already planning our return, with Lamego as our base once again. Maybe on our next trip, we’ll even work the 686 steps to the sanctuary into our daily routine.
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