As the sun rises over Florence, the riverside houses, all huddled together facing the River Arno, take on a yellowish hue, seeming almost envious as they look towards the houses on the other side and the bridge connecting them. This iconic bridge, with its own set of houses perched above the water, is the Ponte Vecchio, or “old bridge,” standing strong since the Middle Ages.
Ponte Vecchio is probably the most famous among several bridges that serve as gateways into Florence’s historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1982. The city is so full of incredible art, architecture, and culture that it inspired the term “Stendhal Syndrome.” This psychosomatic condition, named after the 19th-century French writer Stendhal who experienced it, causes symptoms like rapid heartbeat, dizziness, and hallucinations when exposed to overwhelming beauty. Lord Byron, another famous figure, felt similarly overwhelmed by Florence’s artistic treasures, describing himself as “drunk with beauty” after visiting the Uffizi galleries in 1817.
In contrast to its modern charm, Ponte Vecchio had a grittier past during the Middle Ages. Back then, it was lined with butcher shops whose owners would discard their unsold, bloody leftovers into the River Arno. Eventually, the Medici family, specifically the Grand Dukes, decided to clean up the trade on the bridge. Interestingly, the term “bankruptcy” is said to have originated here: when a merchant couldn’t pay his debts, the authorities would break the table (“banco”) he used to sell his goods, a practice known as “bancorotto” or “broken table.”
Today, Ponte Vecchio is home to jewelers and artisans, though tourists should guard their wallets against both overpriced merchandise and pickpockets. Above the shops, the Vasari Corridor, a hidden walkway built in 1564 by Vasari for the Grand Duke Cosimo I de Medici, connects the Uffizi Gallery to the Palazzo Pitti, a former Medici residence. This elevated passage allowed the influential Medici family to move safely between their palaces. Unfortunately, it is currently closed for renovations but is set to reopen in 2018.
During the Renaissance, the Medici family, led by Cosimo de Medici, encountered their share of challenges. Cosimo’s Spanish wife, Eleonora di Toledo, disliked living in the Palazzo Vecchio, which served both as city hall and their private residence. Handling the family’s finances, she took the opportunity to buy the Palazzo Pitti from the struggling Pitti family. This move forced Cosimo to commute nearly a kilometer from his new home to his government office. To avoid potential threats and the general public, Cosimo had the Vasari Corridor built, showcasing his knack for practical problem-solving.
suansuan