Sicily, especially Palermo, is renowned for its street food. Imagine biting into fried rice balls with delicious sauce at the center, indulging in rich and creamy cannoli, or tackling a daring sandwich that challenges even the bravest foodies. Not only are these treats flavorful and affordable, but they also narrate the fascinating cultural history of the island.
Street food in Sicily reflects a blend of influences from various cultures that have shaped the island. Each dish tells its own tale. While you can stroll through Il Capo market or down Via Marqueda on your own, sampling different foods, a guided tour is an excellent way to learn the stories behind these culinary delights. Tour guides know the best spots for cannoli and the most authentic Pane con milza.
Let’s explore the culinary history of Sicily through its food:
The arancina, which resembles its namesake, the orange, is essentially a deep-fried rice ball filled with various ingredients. The classic filling is ragù, a meat sauce, but another popular version includes ham and peas. Once the filling is encased in sticky rice, breaded, and fried, it remains fresh for quite a while. The crisp surface paired with the tasty rice and sauce inside is irresistibly addictive. You can get a basic arancina al ragù for about 2€.
There’s some debate about the origins of the arancina. Some say it dates back to Sicily’s Arab era more than 1,000 years ago, while others attribute it to the 13th-century court of Frederick II, where it was created so the emperor could carry a convenient meal while hunting. Interestingly, in Palermo (and most of Sicily and Italy), arancini are round, but in Catania, near Mount Etna, they are cone-shaped, symbolizing the volcanic lava.
The ideal place to enjoy street food is in a lively street market, and Il Capo is one of the best. Here, you’ll find vendors deep-frying a variety of foods like cod, courgette flowers, sardines, and shrimp. Using fresh ingredients, the food is battered and fried, creating fresh, hot, and greasy delights that are quite filling despite their size. Prices range from 0.5€ to 2€ for small portions. These “Friggitoria,” where foods are deep-fried, are a staple in southern Italy, from traditional restaurants to street vendors.
Another must-try in Palermo is Panelle, deep-fried chickpea flour pancakes, often served in a sesame bun as a vegan sandwich or accompanied by Crocchè, deep-fried potato croquettes with a hint of mint and seasoned with fresh lemon juice. This combination is considered Palermo’s version of Fish & Chips and has been a cheap source of protein and carbs during tough times. For just 2€, you can get a paper cone filled with 5 panelle and 5 crocchè, making for a satisfying lunch.
Panelle’s history goes back over a thousand years to the Arabs, who ruled Sicily until 1091 and were known for their culinary experiments. They created chickpea flour, which, when mixed with water and cooked, produced a polenta-like mixture with a long shelf life.
Curious travelers might ask, “Do I really want to die without ever tasting spleen?” If that’s you, then don’t miss the Spleen Sandwich at Rocky Basile’s stand in the Vucciria market. Known as the King of Vucciria market, Basile has been serving Pane con milza (or pani ca’ meusa in Sicilian) for many years. This sandwich, featuring slow-cooked spleen and other guts like lung and trachea, tastes like a cross between kebab meat and liver. Sharing one is a good idea if you’re unsure about handling it solo. The origins of this sandwich trace back to the Middle Ages when Jewish butchers kept entrails as payment due to religious restrictions, selling them with bread and cheese.
For a sweet treat, nothing beats the local cannoli, filled with creamy, sweet ricotta inside a crispy, fried pastry roll. The contrasting textures are heavenly, and the best cannoli are served freshly prepared to keep the roll crispy. This delight hails from the Arab kitchen, known for its sweet pastries, and dates back to the period before 1000 AD when Sicily was under Arab rule. There’s a reason why the plural “cannoli” is used more often than the singular “conollo”—because one is never enough!
Discovering the flavors of Sicily is a fantastic way to experience the island’s rich history and cultural diversity.
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