Dante drew inspiration from this foul-smelling, sulfur-colored, steamy landscape for his depiction of “Hell” in the Divine Comedy. To me, it looks more like an alien planet, as if Mars and the Moon had a baby. The surface, resembling the moon, is dotted with fumaroles emitting steam and boiling water. Le Biancane Nature Park offers a one-of-a-kind geological experience—and it’s free!
Despite being one of Tuscany’s most unique attractions, the park is often overlooked. Tuscany is home to many world-class sights, but the geothermal activities here are truly extraordinary. I’ve never seen anything like this in my European travels. The combination of calcareous deposits with sulfur and iron creates a stunning array of colors. The many fumaroles—openings in the earth’s crust that release steam and gases—make it feel like walking through a fairytale or one of Dante’s nightmarish visions of Hell. Your perception might differ depending on the weather and your mood.
As soon as you park your car, the sulfur smell hits you. It intensifies as you get closer to the steaming hills of Le Biancane Nature Park. Sometimes the odor is so strong that you have to hold your breath. Walking through the park, you’ll notice your feet staying warm because the ground itself is warm. Our November visit on a 15-degree-Celsius Saturday had us ending our trek in t-shirts and shorts.
Even the Etruscans and Romans utilized the hot waters here for thermal baths and extracted boric salts for medicinal purposes. Over time, people learned more about these minerals and their applications. In the Middle Ages, sulfur was distilled for bleaching textiles, vitriol was used for dyeing fabrics black, and alum was used to fix colors and tan leather and hides.
Nowadays, geothermal energy is harnessed here to produce a significant amount of energy. Enel Green Power operates 33 geothermal power plants in Tuscany, providing a total output of about 761 MW, enough to meet more than 22% of the region’s annual energy consumption. The hot gas from the fumaroles is captured and used to power generators. After cooling (the steam you see emanating from large towers), the liquid, mainly water, is pumped back underground until it heats up enough to become gas again. It’s a green, clean, and seemingly endless process.
After exploring the park and seeing the Enel power plants, we recommend visiting the Geothermal Energy Museum in Larderello. The museum offers insights into the history and technical details of geothermal energy, and it’s free too!
Navigating Le Biancane Nature Park is easy even without a map. The paths are clearly marked with signs, and some steep areas have steps and ropes for assistance. Depending on your fitness level, you can choose between a 2 or 5-kilometer loop. Informational signboards throughout the park provide details about the area’s history, geothermal applications, and local vegetation.
We suggest starting at Lagoni del Sasso, walking south to the fumaroles near Lagoni, and then looping back. This 4.5-kilometer walk takes you through some of the most spectacular geothermal landscapes south of Iceland.
If you’re thirsty after all that walking and exposure to hot fumes, don’t worry! You’re near some of Italy’s best wine regions. Check out our recommendations on Wine Touring in Tuscany, particularly in Montalcino.
suansuan