As US-based traveler Saul Schwartz continues his road trip through southwest Ireland, he reaches the westernmost Irish counties to tour the famous “Ring of Kerry.” This scenic drive is celebrated as perhaps the most beautiful part of Ireland, featuring sparkling seascapes, mountains dotted with colorful farmhouses, winding lanes bordered by lush subtropical vegetation, and stunning views of the Lakes of Killarney.
My wife, Fern, and I, along with four relatives, planned our trip to South Ireland months before our March 2020 journey. Despite a travel ban that cut our last two days short, we thoroughly enjoyed our trip. After exploring Limerick, Clare, and Galway, we moved on to discover the charm of County Kerry.
On the third day, we briefly stopped in Adare, a quaint town known for its pretty thatched cottages. This day was dedicated to a long bus ride through the beautiful scenery of the Ring of Kerry, Ireland’s most popular scenic drive. Southwest Ireland is breathtaking, comprising mostly peninsulas, with the stunning Dingle Peninsula to the north, where sheep roam freely over the hills.
Before lunch, we visited the Kerry Bog Village and Museum, an 18th-century village that showcases life in historic Kerry. The village is built around boglands, areas where peat accumulates due to high rainfall and poor drainage. Bogs cover over 17% of Ireland. Here, we saw Irish Wolfhounds and Kerry Bog Ponies, both ancient and native breeds. We wandered through various traditional dwellings and even saw a 19th-century Romany caravan once used by Ireland’s traveling people. Admission was 6 Euros per adult, with a group discount available.
Next, we enjoyed Irish Coffee and Coffee with Baileys at the Red Fox Inn, a traditional Irish pub next to the Bog Village, before having lunch at the Scarriff Inn, which claims Ireland’s best view over Dingle Bay. We sampled vegetable soup, bread, and salad, while our family members opted for more traditional Irish dishes like Irish stew.
The Ring of Kerry drive took us through sparkling seascapes, vibrant farmhouses, winding lanes with subtropical plants, and the stunning Lakes of Killarney, particularly from Ladies View. Covering 254 kilometers from Limerick to Killarney, we saw many sheep, identified by distinct marks. We made a quick stop in the colorful town of Sneem, situated by the Knockmoyle Mountains. Here, a time capsule buried in 2000 will be opened in 2100, and we saw memorials dedicated to Charles de Gaulle, a Tree of Life sculpture, and other local landmarks.
In Killarney, we took a walk to Saint Mary’s Cathedral, admired its Gothic revival style, and enjoyed its stained glass windows. We also visited Killarney National Park, where we attended a free tour of Killarney House, once a stable block to a mansion built in the 1720s that later served as the Browne family residence after a fire destroyed the original mansion. The tour gave us insight into the house’s history, gardens, and the park itself.
Killarney National Park is vast, spanning 103 square kilometers. Just outside, there’s a memorial to Monsignor Hugh O’Flaherty and another marking the World Ploughing Contest of 1954. The Mission Road Commemorative Garden features a slate sculpture that represents the world. The next morning, we took a charming Jaunting Car ride through the park, stopping at Ross Castle, a 15th-century fortress. The ride cost 14 Euros per person and included fun facts from the jarveys, our drivers, about the park and its wildlife, including the 1,000 sika deer introduced from Japan.
We stayed at the Killarney Avenue Hotel, conveniently located near many local sights. For our best meal in Killarney, we visited O’Brien’s Irish Sandwich Café, which offers hearty, wholesome meals.
The weather in March was typically Irish, with frequent rain and cool temperatures. Proper layered clothing kept us comfortable. Tipping in Ireland is generally around 15%, often included in the bill. Cash was handy for tips and certain excursions, as not all places accepted credit cards.
Traveling in March meant fewer crowds but also limited open hours for attractions. Photography was sometimes restricted. Ireland requires power adapters for U.S. electronics, and emergency numbers are 999 or 112. Remember, driving is on the left, and speed limits are in kilometers.
We found that English is widely spoken and signage is predominantly in English. Traveling off-season offered less crowded sites, and hotel breakfasts were generous with both hot and cold options. Our trip was memorable, and we hope to return to see more of Ireland, including Dublin and Belfast.
Saul lives in Alexandria, Virginia, has been a resident of the Washington, D.C. area since 1984, and loves traveling through Europe with his family, enjoying local interactions and learning about different cultures. This is his second article about Ireland; his first covers Limerick, Clare, and Galway.
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