The Acropolis of Athens and its monuments are universal symbols of classical spirit and civilization, forming the greatest architectural and artistic complex passed down from Greek Antiquity to the world. Built in the 5th century BC, these iconic structures are the birthplace of democracy and Western civilization. US-based traveler Saul Schwartz takes us through his exploration of ancient Athens, highlighting the best places to experience its rich history.
During our five nights in Athens, my wife Fern and I spent half of the trip exploring ancient sites. Visiting in November meant fewer tourists and pleasant weather, around 21°C (70°F).
We toured the museum both before and after visiting the Acropolis, with an entry fee of 5 Euros. Opened in 2009, the museum stands at the foot of the Acropolis, featuring glass walls that offer direct views of the temples. The collection is spread across three levels, and a guide recommended starting here for better orientation. An English video provided us background on the Acropolis monuments. The museum is next to the Acropolis metro station and has an impressive modern design.
The museum showcases treasures from the Acropolis and surrounding areas, including the Parthenon marbles. It houses sculptures, religious offerings, and reliefs from the Parthenon frieze. There’s also a section for the Parthenon marbles held in the British Museum, which were taken by Lord Elgin in the 19th century. Athens actively campaigns for their return.
Outside the museum are ruins of an early Christian settlement, included with museum admission. Roads, houses, baths, workshops, and tombs were uncovered during the museum’s construction. Signage in English is well done.
We had a light lunch in the café, enjoying panoramic views of the Acropolis. Although the museum’s English signage is adequate, we struggled with the thematic arrangement of items and wished for a guided or audio tour. The current museum replaced a much smaller one.
We bought a 30 Euro ticket covering the Ancient Agora, Hadrian’s Library, and other sites, valid for a week. Rick Steves’ 55-minute audio guide greatly enhanced our tour. The Acropolis, landmark of ancient Athens, dates back to the golden age of the late 5th century B.C. Its temples are among Western architecture’s most influential buildings.
Starting with the Propylaea, the entrance to the Acropolis, we passed the tiny Nike Athena temple and the Dionysus Theater. This theater, where ancient Greek dramas were first performed, seated 15,000 and is still used for concerts today.
The Parthenon, honoring Athena, is perhaps the greatest ancient temple. Despite many photos, its immensity surprised us. Built over 9 years, each piece fits uniquely together, with tapered or curved lines. This was our Acropolis tour highlight, though reconstruction is ongoing.
The Erechtheion, the religious temple on the Acropolis, features the famous porch of the maidens (replicas replace the originals). This part of the Acropolis might be the most visually appealing.
The Greek flag at the northeast corner commemorates two heroes who tore down the Nazi flag during WWII, an inspiring act for the Greeks. Views from here over various Athens neighborhoods were spectacular.
A good guidebook, audio guide, or tour guide is essential to understand these ancient sites.
Entry to Hadrian’s Library is included in the Acropolis ticket. Built in 132 A.D. by Emperor Hadrian, this lavish structure featured a marble courtyard, gardens, and lecture rooms. The library, now partially excavated and restored, is worth a brief tour if you’re nearby.
Hadrian’s Arch, free to view, is another monumental gateway in Athens. Inscribed with Hadrian’s and Theseus’s names to distinguish ancient from modern Athens, it spans an old road between the city’s sections.
Nearby is the Temple of Olympian Zeus. Once Greece’s largest temple, it originally housed a gold and ivory Zeus statue. Sixteen columns survive, but with little else to see, we opted not to pay for the closer view.
The Ancient Agora, included in the Acropolis fee, was the center of public life in ancient Athens, located near the Thissio metro station. Enhanced by a 47-minute Rick Steves’ audio guide, it features remnants of shops, theaters, and government buildings. Socrates and Saint Paul once addressed crowds here.
The Agora Museum, in a reconstructed shopping mall building (Stoa of Attalos), shows finds from the site, including an ancient voting machine.
The Temple of Hephaestus, the best-preserved classical temple in Greece, has relief sculptures depicting Theseus’s deeds, dating from around 460 B.C.
The Church of the Holy Apostles, within the Ancient Agora, is a 10th-century Byzantine church with fading frescos and decorative exterior tiles, restored to its original form.
Phyx Hill, the birthplace of democracy, features a limestone theater and speaker’s podium from the 5th century B.C. assemblies. Though not much to see, it’s free to visit.
Our tour of ancient Athens complemented our previous tour of Rome’s ancient sites. Both cities are easily navigable by public transit. With more time, we could have explored more ancient museums.
Saul Schwartz lives in Alexandria, Virginia, traveling throughout Europe with his wife and family, enjoying interactions with locals and learning about their cultures. He has also visited Berlin, cruised the Danube, and explored London and Rome, among other travels.
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