Many of Istria’s hill towns are most charming when seen from a distance. Perched atop hills with their medieval walls and pencil-shaped clock towers, they seem to declare, “Here we are. We’ve conquered this hilltop.” Grožnjan, however, offers more than just a picturesque exterior; it’s also an artist colony inside. Despite its small size, you can easily lose yourself in its maze of cobblestone streets while soaking in stunning views of Central Istria’s rolling landscapes.
Grožnjan owes much of its charm to the artists who settled there in the 1960s. Without them, it might have ended up as another forgotten hill town filled with crumbling medieval buildings. Instead, it’s a beautifully restored village, free from traffic in its historic center, brimming with artistic energy. The artists have brought Grožnjan into the present, rescuing it from the brink of obsolescence.
Historically, Grožnjan, like many western Istrian hill towns, had strong ties to Venice, which took control in 1358 and ruled until 1797. The Venetians fortified the town, making it a key part of their defense system. However, the plague of 1630 nearly deserted the area. To revive it, Venice relocated Italian families from neighboring regions, which is why about 39% of the local population today is of Italian descent.
After Napoleon’s fall in 1813, the area became part of the Austrian Empire, and Grožnjan enjoyed a period of prosperity, but only for about a century. Following the end of the Austrian Empire after WWI and the Great Depression, many residents emigrated to Italy and beyond in search of work.
By the mid-20th century, Grožnjan was on the edge of decay until a group of artists moved into the abandoned houses. In 1965, the town was officially named “Town of Artists,” transforming it from a place of ruin into a vibrant art colony. Today, especially in summer, the town buzzes with music, echoing through its renovated houses, loggias, cobblestone streets, and small squares, ensuring Grožnjan remains lively.
Top 5 Things to Do in Grožnjan
1. Enjoy the view from the ramparts and check out the outdoor collection of model boats crafted from scrap metal.
2. Taste local wine and olive oil. Grožnjan is part of the “Citta del vino” and Olive Oil association, a testament to its quality.
3. See the Venetian Town Loggia. As you pass through the 15th-century gate, the first building you’ll encounter is the Renaissance loggia from 1587.
4. Visit some of the artists’ studios. Wander through the labyrinthine streets and discover Grožnjan’s artistic gems.
5. Listen to music during the summer months. Grožnjan hosts a Jazz Festival in July and, as the Centre of Croatian Musical Youth, arranges workshops and performances all summer long.
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