Travel journalist and wine lover, Anita Palada, delves into the world of Croatian indigenous grapes to explain how wines like Dingač and Crljenak find their way to the table of US President Joe Biden.
Dalmatian winegrowers put their heart and soul into these wines because, to them, wine is a gift from heaven and a symbol of hope and knowledge. They understand that great things, including wines like Dingač and Zinfandel, are born from strong emotions.
The story of these wines begins with Crljenak Kaštelanski, an ancestor of both Primitivo and Zinfandel. This vibrant Dalmatian wine traveled from the imperial nursery garden of King Francis II to Vienna, Trieste, and eventually, to California’s Napa Valley in the early 19th century. In California, it evolved into Zinfandel, while in Italy, it became known as Primitivo. Eventually, winemakers in Kaštela, such as those from the Krolo vineyard, brought the variety back to its homeland, nurturing it into a refined wine with subtle tannins.
Crljenak Kaštelanski’s complex flavors have even graced the table at the White House during President Joe Biden’s inauguration. Guests enjoyed its rich notes of dark berries, liquorice, and green pepper, alongside the tannins of Dingač wine from Pelješac. The Dingač wine, known for its mature taste, is produced from the Plavac Mali grapes that grow on Pelješac’s southern slopes.
Dingač, protected as an autochthonous Croatian wine, is renowned for its richness and full-bodied nature. Its quality has made it a favorite at prestigious events worldwide, including those hosted by Queen Elizabeth and the Papal Palace. Even the British Prime Minister, Boris Johnson, is a fan. The stringent cultivation methods, including limiting vine yield and ensuring optimal sugar content, result in a wine with up to 17% alcohol. The combination of triple sunlight exposure from the sea, stone, and sun, along with dried wine berries, contributes to its unique characteristics.
Quality in winemaking, as emphasized by renowned Pelješac winemaker Anto Palihnić, starts in the vineyard. He believes in a deep connection with the vines, nurturing them daily to produce high-quality grapes. His dedication has led to a thriving business, expanding from 15,000 vines inherited from his father to 100,000. Each year, his winery produces and sells 800,000 bottles of wine.
Anto’s passion for winemaking goes beyond just hard work. He sees his vineyard as a source of joy and takes pride in making the best use of the Plavac Mali variety, which he believes is heaven-sent. His wine has been recognized as a quality champion multiple times, a testament to his expertise and dedication.
Champagne, according to another famous winemaker Mato Violić Matuško, is a drink of pleasure and passion. The vineyards of Plavac Mali on the steep slopes of Dingač and Postup receive intense sunlight, contributing to their globally renowned flavors. Dalmatian winemakers, driven by curiosity and passion, eagerly anticipate the harvest and the unique flavors young wine will bring.
Through their dedication, Dalmatian winemakers create wines that connect deeply with those who savor them, just as they have resonated with historical figures like Francis II and modern ones such as Biden.
Anita Palada captures this passion and heritage in her travel and tourism writing, often focusing on the picturesque landscapes and rich cultural experiences of Croatia and beyond. Her stories explore fascinating destinations, heritage hotels, traditional food, and delightful wines, bringing the essence of her travels to readers around the world.
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