Matera is a city that has retained its ancient charm over the years. Carved into the soft tufa rock, Matera continues to amaze visitors with its stunning landscape, resembling a miniature version of ancient Jerusalem. It’s no surprise that Mel Gibson chose it as the backdrop for his film “Passion of the Christ.”
In the past, the Sassi of Matera, the tufa dwellings, were synonymous with poverty and misery, plagued by malaria and labeled “National Shame” in the 1950s. This led to massive resettlement, restoration, and financial aid to revitalize Matera.
In 1993, the Sassi were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Today, visitors are drawn to its charming alleys, rock-carved houses, rock churches, hidden cisterns, breathtaking views, wonderful cuisine, and warm hospitality in the Basilicata region.
Human settlements in Matera date back to the Paleolithic era, showcasing mankind’s ability to adapt to natural environments. The city serves as an open-air museum, letting visitors connect with ancient customs and traditions. In the Hellenic age, Matera was influenced by the Magna Graecia people, essentially becoming a Greek colony. It originated in the 3rd century BC during the consulate of Metellus, who named it Metheola.
In 664 AD, Matera came under Lombard rule, was annexed to the Duchy of Benevento, and faced devastation from Frankish invasions. Significant historical records from the 7th and 8th centuries note the settlement of Benedictine and Greek-Orthodox monastic communities in its caves. The 9th and 10th centuries saw numerous battles between Saracens and Byzantines over the region.
The following centuries, marked by plagues and earthquakes, witnessed Matera’s brief municipal phase before it came under the Crown of Aragon in the 15th century. During the 17th century, it belonged to the Orsini family and served as the capital of Basilicata until 1806, when Giuseppe Buonaparte transferred the title to Potenza.
In 1927, Matera became the provincial capital. In 1935, writer, physician, and painter Carlo Levi was exiled here, which inspired his 1945 novel “Christ Stopped at Eboli,” portraying the region’s extreme poverty.
By 1948, the dire conditions in the Sassi were highlighted, leading to funds in 1952 for new residential areas, relocating about 15,000 residents from cave houses to new developments. In recent years, Matera and its Sassi have flourished, offering tourists comfortable facilities and a rich cultural program, thanks to numerous new cultural institutions.
The Sasso Barisano, on the cliff’s north-west edge, is the old city’s hub. To the south lies the Sasso Caveoso, arranged like a Roman amphitheater with cave houses cascading into the valley. Separating the two Sassi is the “Civita,” a rocky hill that was historically concealed from enemies. Here you’ll find the Cathedral and several noble palaces, featuring paintings by local artists, a 16th-century crib by Altobello Persio, and a 15th-century wooden choir by Giovanni Tantino.
In the historic center, you can visit other Romanesque churches like San Giovanni Battista and San Domenico. Along the 17th-century ridge of the “Piano,” marvel at Baroque civil and religious buildings, including the churches of San Francesco da Paola and Santa Chiara, and Palazzo Lanfranchi, which hosts important art exhibitions and the National Museum of Medieval and Modern Art of Basilicata.
Equally notable is the Domenico Ridola National Archaeological Museum, which houses artifacts from the “Parco della Murgia” and offers insights into indigenous cultures. Among the city’s notable buildings are Palazzo Bernardini, Palazzo del Sedile, now the Conservatory of Music, and the imposing Tramontano Castle, left incomplete due to the premature death of Count Giancarlo Tramontano.
Beyond the city, the Murgia Materana Park, an archaeological park established in 1990 and also a UNESCO World Heritage site, is worth visiting. Here, you’ll find rock churches and diverse wildlife, including birds of prey like the red kite and Egyptian vulture. Another natural wonder is the Gravina di Laterza, often called the Grand Canyon of Puglia.
Matera was named European Capital of Culture for 2019, shedding its past label of “national shame.” It is an intriguing holiday destination, offering something special for every visitor, any time of year.
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