Saul Schwartz and his wife Fern embarked on a journey across the pond for the first time since the pandemic, aiming to re-fall in love with Europe, starting with Northern Italy. Their itinerary included Milan, Florence, Pisa, and Venice, all packed into a well-organized two-week trip. Here’s a glimpse into how they spent their four days in Venice:
They began with a Vaporetto ride along the Grand Canal, the largest of Venice’s 177 canals. This historic waterway, stretching 2.5 miles with a winding path, provided their first glimpse of the city’s exquisite palaces. Early May brought perfect touring weather, around 65°F, with only a brief rain shower on their first day.
Crossing the Accademia Bridge to the Accademia Galleries marked their first venture. This 1832-built wooden and metal bridge offered splendid views of the Grand Canal. The Galleries, housed in a building from 1343, boast 24 rooms of Italian art, primarily from Venice and earlier centuries. With pre-booked tickets, they bypassed lines and used audio guides to navigate the museum’s limited written descriptions. A highlight was the controversial “Supper in the House of Levi” by Veronese, notable for its depiction of various unconventional characters.
Seeking a good orientation of the city, they booked a two-hour tour called Essential Venice. Their guide, David, led them across the Accademia Bridge, past the Leaning Bell Tower of Santo Stefano, and to the Gran Teatro La Fenice. The tour also covered lesser-known sites like the bronze statue of Daniel Manin in Campo Manin and the impressive spiral staircase, Scala Contarini del Bovolo, at the Palazzo Contarini. They wrapped up the tour in Saint Mark’s Square, a bustling hub of Venice.
Their afternoon was spent at Caffe Aurora in Saint Mark’s Square, enjoying drinks and live orchestras. They explored the Doge’s Palace and Saint Mark’s Basilica with another pre-booked tour, which helped them avoid long queues. The Doge’s Palace, dating back to the 14th century, showcased a blend of Gothic, Byzantine, and Renaissance architecture. Inside, they admired the Golden Staircase, vast halls, and the world’s largest oil painting, “Paradise.” The Bridge of Sighs, connecting the Palace to the prisons, offered a somber historical note.
Next, they explored Venice’s Jewish ghettos, created in 1516, with their guide Martina. They learned about the area’s history, memorials, and its residents’ resilience during World War II. Afterward, they enjoyed panini sandwiches at Majer restaurant and kosher treats from Panificio Volpe Giovanni bakery.
Fern and Saul also attended a live performance of Vivaldi’s “Four Seasons” at the Chiesa di San Vidal, a former church with excellent acoustics. They rounded off their Venice trip with a tour to Murano, Torcello, and Burano islands. They watched glass-making in Murano, admired Torcello’s ancient basilica, and marveled at Burano’s colorful homes and lace-making traditions.
After four fulfilling days in Venice, they took a high-speed train from Florence’s Santa Maria Novella station to Venice’s San Lucia station. Navigating Venice’s waterways, they reached their Airbnb in the San Marco neighborhood. Their final journey to Marco Polo Airport was made easy with the Alilaguna water bus.
Saul and Fern found their Airbnb’s location convenient yet peaceful, near the attractions but nestled in a quieter square. Stocking up on groceries at Despar and Coop allowed them to prepare meals and snacks for their adventures.
Saul, residing in Alexandria, Virginia, enjoys traveling through Europe, engaging with locals, and sharing his travel experiences. He has written about various destinations, including southwestern Ireland, modern Athens, and the Vatican in Rome.
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