In the scenic countryside of San Miniato, Tuscany, lie oak trees, willows, and hazel trees, which are home to the prized White Truffle of San Miniato. Known scientifically as Tuber Magnatum Pico, this rare delicacy is often referred to as the “diamond of the kitchen” and ranks among the most expensive truffles in the world. On a crisp November morning, we joined local truffle hunters on a quest for these exceptional fungi.
Dressed in camouflage and earthy greens, these hunters come equipped not with firearms, but with a zappino (a narrow spade) and treats for their dogs. Not long into our trek along a small creek, one of the dogs excitedly starts digging. The handler hurries over, both to encourage the dog and to retrieve the truffle before it gets damaged or eaten.
Although trained dogs are the preferred truffle hunters (unlike pigs, which tend to eat the truffles they find), even these eager canines can accidentally harm or consume a truffle during their search, hence the need for dog treats.
Lucky for us, the dog uncovers a small, unremarkable-looking truffle, which the truffle hunter proudly displays. Without their expertise, we would never have spotted this dirt-colored gem. As it’s passed around, the unmistakable aroma confirms its authenticity.
The scent, which blends hints of garlic or ramson with a musky mushroom aroma, is how I’d best describe it. My husband likens it to “a mix of old cheese and…well, farts” (although, he insists his farts don’t actually smell like truffles!). Truffles aren’t everyone’s cup of tea, which just means more for those who love them.
We’ve tasted black truffles before, but nothing compares to the potent fragrance and flavor of this white truffle, the most expensive of its kind, fetching up to €2,500 per pound. Unlike black truffles, white truffles can’t be cultivated, making San Miniato’s unique environment essential for their preservation.
The Truffle Hunt is part of the National White Truffle of San Miniato Festival, held every November. At this festival, you can sample, buy, and cook various truffle products. Besides the valuable truffles themselves, which are protected under glass domes, there are numerous truffle-infused products: cheese, salami, butter, olive oil, paté, salt, honey, and even dried pasta. The only thing we didn’t find was truffle ice cream, but that might be due to oversight on our part!
If you’re hungry, there are plenty of options as well. Restaurants offer truffle-centric menus, and numerous food stands sell truffle-flavored treats.
The Truffle Festival is a celebration not only of white truffles but also of Slow Food. The market boasts other fantastic local products, including charcuterie, cheese, olive oil, and wine. One tent is dedicated to the vignerons of San Miniato, where you can sample various regional wines. The aroma of roasted chestnuts in the air enhances the festive atmosphere.
Being surrounded by passionate people is always a pleasure, and in San Miniato, the locals take great pride in their food, especially truffles. They joyfully share their love for local produce, inviting everyone to partake in the festivity. Regardless of the language you speak, appreciation for good food is universal and can bring everyone together.
Buon appetito!
suansuan