We began our third day in Venice at about 11 o’clock, wandering through Fondamente Nove under a light drizzle. By then, it was time to catch our vaporetto (canal boat). Some locals were concerned about the “acqua alta” or high water, but my tide app assured us we’d be fine for a few more hours. Burano, here we come!
The Venetian Lagoon is anything but natural—it’s like a living organism that’s been kept in balance through human intervention. Without this, the lagoon would have filled in over centuries and become part of the Italian coast. The lagoon offers a unique way to experience Venice, putting the city in perspective both in space and time.
Once you leave central Venice and take regular ferries, the islands scattered throughout the lagoon offer a peaceful escape from the crowds. Burano stands out as my favorite. It’s made up of four interconnecting islands, where people from Altino fled during a barbarian invasion in the sixth century. One guide told us about how the Altinos established a close-knit community here over the centuries.
The scene at the San Marco stop was surreal. The docks, connected by walkways to the pavement along the Basin of St. Mark’s, were slightly elevated by the tide. My mom pointed out a building, and we noticed the gangplanks sloping down and covered in water. Spending a few days here made us realize how the lagoon slowly encroaches on the city, inch by inch.
When we finally arrived at Burano, the island seemed deserted. A few old houses and closed shops appeared ahead, and apart from our fellow vaporetto passengers, there was barely a human in sight. It felt like we had the whole island to ourselves, with plenty of space to explore. Unlike Venice, Burano was quiet and serene. Known for its lace industry and seafood, it was a perfect place for my mom, who loves shopping for lace and eating fish.
Around mid-afternoon, we started craving the seafood we’d planned to eat. We crossed by vibrantly colored buildings and saw a few locals meandering down the alleyways. My mom and I were amazed by the kaleidoscope of colors—bright orange, royal purple, shiny green, and vivid yellow. Burano’s houses are painted this way as part of an old tradition where original fishermen painted their homes in distinct colors to set them apart.
We were hungry and found ourselves at Trattoria da Romano, a simple and elegant restaurant famous for its seafood. The family that runs it has done so for generations, and the walls were covered with sketches, paintings, and cartoons by past diners. The first thing that arrived was a mix of different breads, followed by wine. The server recommended the ‘Frittura Mista’—a mixed Adriatic fish platter. It was delicious, simple, and unforgettable.
Anthony Bourdain once said, “There’s one dish worth crossing the lagoon for…” referring to their Go Risotto, which we had to try. The risotto, made with goby fish found in the Venetian Lagoon, was delightful. It tasted as comforting as Indian Khichdi. Following Bourdain’s advice paid off because the risotto was a true highlight, reflecting Burano’s authenticity.
After a satisfying meal, we explored more of Burano. Unlike Venice’s narrow alleys that rarely let in the light, Burano’s brightly colored fishermen’s houses let the sunlight flood in. Around every corner, we found new sights—a flower pot, a dead end, a pomegranate tree, or a cat. Wandering around was like walking through a painting.
It’s fascinating how every house in Burano had consistent labels and designated colors, with windows and door frames painted white to make the colors pop. Sometimes, the town looked like it was freshly Photoshopped. Houseowners have to get government approval to repaint their homes to maintain the uniformity of the town’s aesthetics.
Burano was a perfect endpoint to our trip. We picked up some hand-made lace as souvenirs, adding a piece of Burano’s history to our memories. Wandering through Burano is often described as walking through a painting due to its stunning visual charm.
Venice’s construction primarily uses wood and brick, faced with stucco. Strolling past the piazzas and campos, we could see where the stucco had worn off, revealing damp bricks beneath. Despite its decline over centuries, Venice still showcases remarkable historical art, offering a unique experience to its visitors.
On our final day, the city flooded, and with rubber boots in tow, we navigated waterlogged streets to catch our flight. Despite the chaos, Burano remains one of our most cherished travel experiences.
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