Vernaccia, often described as “a white island of wine in a sea of red,” stands out amidst the Chianti vineyards of San Gimignano. When young, Vernaccia is fresh and floral—a refreshing sip on a hot day. As it ages, it develops more complex mineral notes while maintaining its crispness. It’s one of the few Italian white wines I truly enjoy, given Italy’s stronger reputation for red wines.
Despite its unique appeal, Vernaccia was nearly forgotten over the centuries as the region’s focus shifted towards red wines. Only a few vines were left, producing Vernaccia more for historical interest than commercial success. Remarkably, this near-extinct wine was once one of Italy’s oldest and most celebrated.
In the 13th century, Vernaccia was a favorite at the tables of kings, popes, and nobles. Boccaccio mentioned it multiple times in “Decameron,” and Dante referenced it in “Divine Comedy,” where Pope Martin IV atones for his gluttony spurred by Vernaccia. During the Renaissance, all noble families in San Gimignano cultivated Vernaccia, even serving it to the Medici family.
However, the wine faced centuries of decline. It wasn’t until the early 20th century that Carlo Fregola, an agriculture professor, encouraged local farmers to revive this ancient grape. Post-WWII modernization in production techniques also helped Vernaccia make a comeback. The end of sharecropping in Tuscany allowed winemakers to focus more on this unique wine.
In 1966, Vernaccia di San Gimignano became the first wine to receive the DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) classification. Recent years have seen a boost in its quality and popularity.
Vernaccia grapes must be from the San Gimignano area, with up to 15% of other approved grapes from the Siena Province allowed. The best Vernaccia wines can become “Riserva,” requiring at least 11 months in barrels or tanks and 3 additional months in bottles before sale.
To experience Vernaccia’s rich history first-hand, visit the Vernaccia di San Gimignano Wine Experience – La Rocca, a new museum on the hilltop of San Gimignano. Here, you can explore the wine’s centuries-old history, the local winemaking traditions, and even meet regional winemakers.
While the museum is free, wine tastings are not. You can sample different wines by the glass or opt for a Masterclass that includes four wine samples, local olive oil with toasted bread, and fennel salami. Andrea, the museum’s sommelier, ensures your tasting experience is both educational and enjoyable. Savoring a chilled glass of Vernaccia while overlooking the vineyards and listening to the swallows is pure bliss.
Vernaccia di San Gimignano has moved beyond its historic roots. It represents not just a cherished past but also a bright future for Italian white wines.
To learn more about San Gimignano, explore our guide to this “Medieval Manhattan.” For those interested in discovering other Tuscan wines, consider our Wine Tour of Tuscany, featuring stops in Montalcino, Montepulciano, and Chianti. If you need a place to stay, the rental agency We Tuscany can assist you.
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