As his journey through southwest Ireland comes to an end, US-based traveler Saul Schwartz arrives in the charming county of Cork. Here, surrounded by fortresses and fishing villages, he explores a castle, kisses a famous stone, and learns about a unique poisonous garden, discovering many reasons to return to Ireland.
My wife Fern and I, along with four relatives, planned our South of Ireland Escape months before our March 2020 trip. Although the last two days were disrupted by a travel ban, we thoroughly enjoyed our visit. After exploring Limerick, Clare, Galway, and Kerry, we made our way to county Cork.
On our last day in South Ireland, we toured the Kerry Mountains and County Cork, with the highlight being our stop at Blarney Castle, famous for its magical Blarney Stone. This historic castle, dating back to the mid-15th century, is located just north of Cork and is renowned for its stone, which supposedly grants eloquence to those who kiss it. To reach the stone, we climbed around 100 steps through a narrow passageway. Leaning backward while gripping an iron railing, Fern was carefully assisted as she kissed the stone.
The current castle dates to 1446 and is privately owned. Admission to the entire complex is 16€ per adult. Outside the castle, the gardens are one of the most visited in Ireland. We found the Poison Garden, Ireland’s only one, quite educational. It features various poisonous plants from around the world, with informative signs about their toxicity and uses.
Between the castle and the parking area, we passed by where the River Martin and the River Blarney meet. The castle is surrounded by a sprawling 60 acres of parklands. We wrapped up our visit with lunch at the cafeteria adjacent to the Blarney Woollen Mills, enjoying a salad plate and drinks of tea and coffee at the Mill Restaurant.
Kinsale, the starting point of the Wild Atlantic Way—a 2,500-kilometer touring route along the Atlantic coast—was our next destination. Traveling from Killarney to Kinsale covered 158 miles. We stayed at the Trident Hotel in Kinsale on World’s End for our final night in Ireland, enjoying a delightful three-course dinner with wine. Both Fern and I chose the seafood entrée, accompanied by salad and a dessert trio. The hotel had access to a fitness center, but it was not open until 7 a.m., so we couldn’t use it.
We explored the picturesque seaside town of Kinsale, with narrow streets leading down from the hills to the harbor. Kinsale is a charming and likely the most prosperous and sophisticated fishing village in Ireland. Its pretty harbor, filled with yachts, is surrounded by brightly painted galleries, shops, and houses. We had desserts at the Poet’s Corner Reading Café, a combined used bookstore and café. Many shops were still closed for the season in March.
Kinsale’s most famous historical event is the 1601 Battle of Kinsale, where about 3,000 Spanish troops fought with the Irish against the English, ultimately leading to a Spanish-Irish defeat. The harbor area features several statues, including a concrete statue of an old sailor, a twin sculpture of Timothy and Mortimer McCarthy, seamen from Kinsale who went on notable expeditions, and a sculpture of a ship and mast from the time of the battle.
Due to the travel ban, we had to fly out of Cork instead of Dublin to Heathrow in London, and then back to Washington, D.C., missing the final two days of our trip intended for Dublin.
Ireland is very green due to frequent rain. During our March trip, it rained daily with occasional breaks in the clouds, but no sun. Temperatures ranged from 35 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit. The weather was windy, rainy, and quite cool, so we dressed in layers with warm socks, hats, scarves, and gloves to stay comfortable.
In Ireland, the customary tipping policy is around 15 percent, though hotels and restaurants often include it as a service charge. Tipping in bars and pubs is not expected unless table service is provided, and tipping taxi drivers and porters is discretionary.
Ireland’s currency is the Euro. Cash was needed for tips, some excursions, and meals, though most places accepted credit cards. For example, some cathedral tours were cash only, and some sites had a minimum fee for credit card use.
Our trip occurred just before the start of the tourist season on April 1, so attractions weren’t crowded, and lines were short. However, many stores and restaurants had limited hours or were closed.
An adapter is needed for electrical devices as Ireland uses different voltage than the US. The emergency numbers are 999 or 112, instead of 911. Ireland is four hours ahead of the Eastern Time Zone when the US is on Daylight Savings Time. Driving is on the left side, with the driver on the right side of the car, making it crucial to look both ways when crossing the street.
Everyone speaks English in Ireland, and signage is in English, though we found less Irish language and signage than expected.
By visiting Ireland before April 1, we avoided crowds at tourist sites and attractions. Each of our hotels included a full Irish breakfast buffet with cereals, fruits, and various hot and cold offerings.
Our South of Ireland escape was memorable for its sights and scenery. Fern and I hope to return to Ireland to visit Dublin, Belfast, and other locations we missed.
Saul lives in Alexandria, Virginia, and has lived in the Washington, D.C. area since 1984. He enjoys traveling throughout Europe with his wife and family, particularly interacting with locals and learning about their lifestyles. This is his third article about Ireland.
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