Ireland, The Emerald Isle: A Journey Through the Southwest
My wife Fern and I, along with four relatives, planned our trip to Southwest Ireland months in advance. Although our last two days were cut short by the travel ban, we thoroughly enjoyed our March 2020 visit.
We landed at Shannon Airport after flights via British Airlines and Aer Lingus. Shannon’s small airport made for a quick baggage claim and customs check. By noon, we were on a shuttle to Limerick to start our tour.
Limerick
Our first stop was Limerick, just 17 miles from Shannon Airport. Situated on the River Shannon, Ireland’s longest river, Limerick is the third largest city in the country. Here, we had our first taste of Irish brown bread at a casual lunch.
We explored Limerick starting with Saint Mary’s Cathedral, established in 1168 by King Donal Mor O’Brien. The self-guided tour revealed beautiful stained glass windows, a pre-Reformation stone altar, and an organ from 1624. The 5 Euro entry fee helps with maintenance, though they don’t accept credit cards.
Next, we visited King John’s Castle, another self-guided tour. The castle, built starting in 1212, has round gate towers and thick walls. It was a site of significant historical sieges and was restored in the late 20th century. Admission was 9.50 Euros per adult.
We briefly stopped by the Treaty Stone, where the Treaty of Limerick was signed in 1691. Nearby, we viewed a bronze sculpture of dockworkers, memorializing Limerick’s bustling docks. We also crossed a white footbridge over the Abbey River, built in 1987 in memory of local surgeon Sylvester O’Halloran.
We stayed at the Clayton Hotel for two nights with a great view of the River Shannon. Despite a fitness center, its late opening hours meant we couldn’t use it. Our dinner at the hotel featured a delicious fish entrée.
Cliffs of Moher
Our second day brought us to the Cliffs of Moher in a heavy rainstorm. These sheer cliffs rise up to 760 feet above the ocean. Despite the weather, the view from the visitor center and O’Brien’s Victorian tower was breathtaking.
We spent some time inside the Visitor Experience Center, learning more about the cliffs through exhibits and a film.
Wild Atlantic Way
Next, we drove through Shannon’s green countryside along Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way, reaching Galway in County Galway. In Galway, we visited the Spanish Arch and Eyre Square, renamed John Kennedy Park in 1963. The park and surrounding streets were full of history, including a bronze sculpture of writers Wilde and Vilde.
In Eyre Square, we saw the 16th-century Browne doorway, showcasing old Galway’s architectural splendor. We lunched at Jury’s Inn, enjoying a simple salad and sandwich in a casual setting.
Bunratty Castle
That evening, we attended a Medieval Banquet at Bunratty Castle, along the O’Garney River. The restored 15th-century castle offered a festive evening, with music, mead, and dinner served in a traditional setting. While the food didn’t impress us, the experience itself was memorable. The cost was 79 Euros per person.
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