What does it mean to be Basque? And why have the Basque people worked so tirelessly to preserve their language and traditions? We spent a month in this region to find out.
“Euskal Herria” translates to Basque Country, but “Herri” signifies more than just country. It also encompasses village, region, and people, illustrating the deep connection the Basque people have with their land and heritage. The Basque Country stretches beyond national and international borders, rich with traditions, stories, and tensions.
We dashed down the mountain on a narrow single track, with Victor leading and me struggling to keep balance and pace behind him. Two minutes later, we were on the Plazaola, a former railway turned into a 44 km greenway through the Navarese Pyrenees. Ten minutes after that, we were back in Leitza, having covered 26 kilometers of fantastic mountain biking with 1,235 vertical meters and many spectacular views.
Back in the village, Victor, our kind landlord and an avid mountain biker, and I enjoyed a chilled glass of local Txacoli white wine in the warm afternoon sun. Despite being just a day away from Halloween, the sun still managed to keep temperatures above twenty degrees. As the crisp Txacoli refreshed us, we laughed and discussed the differences between our countries and what it means to be Basque.
Though Leitza is in the region of Navarre, it is part of the Basque Country, and its inhabitants are proudly Basque, considering themselves Basque first and Spanish second, and with good reason. A thousand years ago, the ancient Kingdom of Navarre encompassed the entire Basque region up to Bordeaux. Under King Sancho III, the kingdom eventually divided after his reign. In the 14th century, swearing allegiance to the Crown of Castile gave the region remarkable privileges like tax exemption and local autonomy.
Over 500 years of autonomy and the preservation of their language, Euskara, bolstered Basque confidence and fostered a strong sense of national identity distinct from the Kingdom of Castile. The northern Basque provinces were absorbed into France in the 17th century, and the spread of liberalism in the 19th century led to the Spanish government revoking the privileges of the southern Basque provinces in 1876.
Since then, the Basque people have fought to regain their rights while the Spanish government has attempted to suppress them. Suppression often leads to resistance. Although the era of bombings, terrorist actions, and violence is hopefully behind us, the desire to preserve Basque identity remains strong. The Basque people celebrate their heritage in many ways to ensure their children do not forget their roots.
They maintain traditional practices like dancing and rural sports—herri kirolak—which involve physical activities such as stone lifting, wood chopping, and tug-of-war. They also celebrate with carnivals like the one in Ituren, where people dress in costumes and ring bells. Gastronomical societies, or txokos, where people enjoy food and each other’s company, and the traditional ballgame pelote, similar to squash but played without a racket, are also part of their culture.
Coming from northern Europe, where people often find local traditions outdated and are glued to their televisions, I was amazed at how the Basque people connect with their past and each other. My feelings were a mix of admiration and a bit of envy.
Leitza, a charming village in the heart of the Basque Country, is just 25 minutes south of Donostia (San Sebastián) and 40 minutes north of Iruña (Pamplona). It’s an ideal spot for nature lovers, hikers, mountain bikers, bird enthusiasts, and cultural explorers, offering stunning natural beauty and proximity to significant cultural landmarks.
We were fortunate to spend a month in this lovely town, where every house has a name, a Basque tradition. The central town square is filled with children playing ball and pelote every afternoon, and the locals generously shared their recommendations, ideas, and history with us.
Everywhere we went, the houses were meticulously maintained. Naming a house seems to give it character, making it a representation of the family and thus, well cared for.
It’s no surprise that Leitza, with all its beauty, has become a movie star. The town was recently featured in the Spanish romantic comedy “Ocho Apellidos Vascos,” which humorously explores the cultural differences between a Basque girl and a Sevillan guy. Although the film exaggerates and stereotypes, it served as a light-hearted introduction to the contrast within Spain and the tensions that linger today.
The Basque Country is rich with mystery, traditions, stories, and tension. Once you delve into its history filled with giants and witches and its present brimming with tradition and a deep respect for nature, you’ll find yourself captivated and enchanted by this unique region.
suansuan