The Ardennes is a fantastic place for bikepacking in northern France, especially if you love nature, charming villages, and good food. During autumn, the region offers an abundance of experiences, from picking ceps to enjoying freshly baked croissants from local bakeries—all without making you break a sweat.
On a cold Sunday morning, we woke up in our tent under giant beech trees near the Ardennes, surrounded by people eager to gather ceps. It wasn’t even fully light yet, but wicker baskets were everywhere—it’s cep season. With little room on our bikes, we only picked enough for lunch before heading to our favorite patisserie.
Autumn cycling has its ups and downs. We’d thaw out from cold nights in our tent with a croissant (or two) and revel in the beauty of nature, void of summer crowds. While rain can be inconvenient when camping, it also gives us a perfect excuse to warm up in cozy cafes with hot chocolate and pastries, making our adventures feel even richer and more luxurious.
This year has been especially fruitful for ceps, which have become a central part of our diet, with cep carbonara being a standout dish. We explored the area, visiting picturesque towns like Chimay in Belgium and Rocroi, famous for its star-shaped fortifications, which offered some wind shelter and a picturesque spot for planning our next campsite.
Our chosen spot was in the dense forest below Rocroi, under a venerable oak tree. The forest floor, covered with leaves, offered a soft bed, and we were surrounded by various fungi, including the vibrant yellow stagshorn fungus. Alone in this serene setting, we enjoyed a meal of delicious mushrooms on pan rustique, feeling grateful for nature’s bounty.
The next morning, we cycled into the Meuse river valley, beginning our day with a trip to the patisserie in Revin, a quaint medieval town. We explored many towns along the river, snacking on walnuts, apples, and pears found on the banks, and admired a perfectly reflected bridge creating an illusion of circular arches. A kingfisher and graceful heron added to the enchantment of our ride.
In Bogny-sur-Meuse, we left our bikes to hike up a steep, foggy path to see the Semois valley. Though initially hidden by fog, the valley eventually revealed a stunning view, complete with kayakers navigating the river. The peaceful and wild character of this landscape contrasted with the neighboring arable plains of Belgium and France.
We spent our last night near Lac des Vieilles Forges after cycling through historic villages and medieval ruins. Despite the chilly weather, we enjoyed another day of cycling, indulging in local snacks like the hearty “mitraillette” and delicious pastries from ‘Boulangerie Crepin’ in Renwez.
Camping in the dense woods during hunting season, we made sure to stay visible amidst the surplus of ceps and occasional sounds of wild boars. Packing up the next morning was bittersweet, as we knew it was our last in these magical forests. The beauty of the medieval towns and the forest’s gourmet offerings left a lasting impression, and we left knowing we would return to the Ardennes for more adventures.
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