Capturing the spirit of Tour de France and standing tall in the Provençal landscape, Mont Ventoux is much more than just a mountain. Known by various nicknames like “Beast of Provence,” “The Bald Mountain,” and “Provence’s Fujiyama,” Mont Ventoux translates to “Windy Mountain,” and it truly lives up to its name when the Mistral winds blow fiercely.
Designated as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 1990, Mont Ventoux hosts over 1,200 plant species, including some unique to the mountain itself. It is also home to more than 1,400 types of butterflies, 120 bird species that nest there, and a diverse array of other wildlife. While the peak may look barren, the region boasts incredible biodiversity, making it a haven for nature lovers and rare species.
Biker’s Challenge
For cyclists, Mont Ventoux is the ultimate test. The summit stands at a staggering 1,912 meters above sea level. Add to that the Mistral winds that can reach speeds of up to 320 km/h—though usually around 90 km/h—and a relentless final 16 km climb with a 9% gradient, and you have a formidable challenge.
The classic route up Mont Ventoux starts in Bédoin, much like in the Tour de France. It demands mental fortitude more than physical strength because the unyielding climb lies visibly ahead, taunting you. As you pedal up the barren, limestone-strewn peak, it feels like you’re battling the mountain itself, which seems determined to push you back.
Reaching the summit offers a spectacular view of Provence, a reward for the grueling journey. You’ll feel like an eagle soaring to its nest and can proudly claim to have followed in the tire tracks of cycling legends, conquering the Bald Mountain.
Hiker’s Horror
We chose to tackle Mont Ventoux on foot. The 14 km hike with a 700-meter vertical ascent seemed challenging but doable. Equipped with a GPX file on our smartphones, we waited for calmer April winds and set off on a sunny morning from Mont Serein at an elevation of 1,400 meters.
The first hundred meters of the climb were steep, but then the trail leveled out, skirting the northern slope through coniferous woods and precarious limestone rubble. When we left the forest and saw the narrow path clinging to the steep hillside, we considered turning back. Checking our route, we realized we were on the GR9, a long-distance hiking trail in southern France. Motivated by the knowledge that backpackers traverse these paths, we pressed on with determination.
And we were glad we did. The adrenaline rush combined with breathtaking views made this one of the most memorable walks in France. The trail winds around the mountain for about 3 km before climbing steadily to “la Tête de la Grave” (the “Head of the Serious”). We eventually reached the “Col des Tempêtes” or “Storm Pass,” and followed the mountain’s spine all the way to the summit. The final 4 km offered a barren, moon-like terrain with red and green markers guiding us in case of snow.
Walking along Mont Ventoux’s spine, with awe-inspiring views on both sides and battling the strong winds, is an exhilarating experience whether you’re on foot or bike. Reaching the summit means you’ve conquered the Bald Mountain.
The descent was a 3 km zig-zag through the northern forest, ending with a well-deserved rest, snack, and beer at the café in the Mont Serein campsite, where our car awaited. This hike was the perfect end to an unforgettable adventure, one that will stay with us forever.
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