When Ava Kabouchy traded the cool temperatures of Maine for the warm Mediterranean climate of southwest France, she also found herself surrounded by a new palette of colors. Living in Perpignan for three years, she explored the rich layers of French and Catalan culture and history this vibrant city has to offer.
I hadn’t heard of Perpignan until I decided to spend a year in France to brush up on my French. Searching for a warm climate, I came across Perpignan and fell in love with the images of palm trees, blue skies, and the iconic Castillet. Known as one of the sunniest cities in France with 250 days of sunshine, Perpignan has its own micro-climate. It might be gray in Toulouse, just a two-hour train ride away, but Perpignan often basks in sunshine.
I enrolled in full-time courses at the University of Perpignan, where I stayed with a retired French couple. The husband, a chef, treated me to French dishes every evening. My only household responsibility was making my bed in the morning. Free from chores, I enjoyed studying French, exploring the city’s medieval past, and its compact, walkable center filled with cafés. I stayed initially for a year but ended up spending three wonderful years there.
Perpignan is all about vibrant colors rather than famous French monuments. From the blue skies and pastel architecture to the rich red of L’Archipel Theatre and the colorful Casanyes Market, the city is a feast for the eyes. Salvador Dali once called Perpignan “the center of the world,” capturing some of these hues in his painting of the Perpignan train station. The local cuisine is a delightful mix of Catalan spices and southwestern French flavors, offering everything from duck dishes to seafood, paired with fine wines from nearby Collioure.
History buffs will find the Palais des Rois de Mallorca fascinating, with its medieval architecture and rich history dating back to 1274. The Musée Hyacinth Rigaud and Hôtel Pams offer glimpses into France’s royal and industrial past.
Every September, Perpignan hosts the international photojournalism festival Visa Pour L’Image, which showcases global news events and environmental issues. The city’s medieval streets, built for cooling shade, are full of surprises, including Les Halles, an indoor market teeming with fresh produce, meats, and international cuisine.
The 14th-century Saint John the Baptist Cathedral, at the city’s center, stands alongside the cloistered cemetery Campo Santo, which hosts a medieval village reenactment each year. The vibrant Casanyes Market, unique for its mix of Gypsy and North African cultures, provides a lively shopping experience with friendly vendors and fresh Mediterranean fish.
Despite high unemployment and socio-economic challenges, the St. Jacques neighborhood, bordering Casanyes Market, is full of life, family ties, and community spirit. During my stay, peaceful political demonstrations were common, reflecting the local penchant for expressing opinions through song and dance rather than violence.
For just one euro, you can take a bus to Collioure, a picturesque town known for its wines and colorful buildings. Hiking along the Sentier Littoral brings stunning views of the Mediterranean and Pyrenees.
Perpignan is a city for all seasons, with activities ranging from theatre and cinema to wine tastings and open-air markets. It remains lively year-round, without the seasonal exodus seen in other regions.
Getting to Perpignan is straightforward from Barcelona’s El Prat airport or by direct train from Paris. Hotel de la Loge, in the city center, offers a quiet and convenient base. Dining options are abundant, and L’Arago is a personal favorite for its delicious menu and pleasant outdoor seating.
Perpignan, with its rich cultural tapestry and vibrant atmosphere, promises a unique and colorful experience.
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